Mavrotragano is an exotic and intriguing grape variety native to Greece, specifically from the Cycladic island of Santorini. Its name translates to “black and crunchy,” an accurate description of the grape's characteristics. This rare variety is renowned for its inky, full-bodied wines that are gaining international recognition due to their complexity and aging potential.
Sublimely balanced, Mavrotragano boasts flavours ranging from dark fruits like blackberries and cherries to more savoury, earthy elements. It is not uncommon to discern notes of tobacco, chocolate, and subtle hints of spice. Moreover, its boldness is beautifully controlled by a robust acidity, that bestows a sense of freshness to the palate.
For a long time, Mavrotragano was extremely scarce, almost on the brink of extinction, predominantly due to the preference for white-dominant varietals in the industry. However, thanks to the efforts of a number of pioneering winemakers who recognised the grape's potential, this ancient variety saw a resurgence in the late 20th century.
On the viticulture front, Mavrotragano is a particularly robust grape. It thrives in the volcanic soils and arid climate of Santorini, demonstrating an impressive resistance to diseases and pests. Intricate training methods adopted by the vintners, like 'kouloura' or 'stefani,' help the vines endure the sometimes harsh tempestuous winds of the region.
Wines produced from Mavrotragano are often barrel-aged to impart supplementary complexity. Over time, the wines develop unique tertiary aromas, showcasing a depth and substance that confirms Mavrotragano's status as one of Greece's noble red varieties.
Those who favour bold, expressive reds that encapsulate a sense of place will find themselves falling for the unique allure of wines produced from the Mavrotragano grape. Its emergence from obscurity to popularity has proven that it is indeed a hidden gem in the realm of Greek winemaking, awaiting discovery by discerning wine lovers.
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