Susumaniello is an ancient red grape variety that hails from Italy's southeast, specifically in the region of Apulia. The name Susumaniello translates to 'little donkey' in local dialect, purportedly a nod to the heavy load of grapes the vines can yield.
Susumaniello was originally cultivated for its prodigious yield capacity, although this is rather misleading as the plant changes its persona as it ages, decreasing its productivity with time. In its younger years, it might have resembled a little workhorse, but with ageing, it begins to deliver smaller, more concentrated harvests of superior quality. The grape variety characteristically delivers wines with rich colour and significant tannic structure.
The grape itself is considered rather obscure, because up until recently, it was on the brink of extinction due to lack of recognition. However, a revival spurred on by local winemakers over the last few decades has led to an increase in its popularity.
Oenologically speaking, Susumaniello offers unique characteristics. The wines that utilise this grape often possess deep, ruby-red hues with violet reflections. Tasting may reveal a medium to full body, offering a delicate fruity bouquet often hinting at berries, cherries, plum, and sometimes an undercurrent of spice and herbs.
This grape variety shows a good propensity for ageing, and more complex versions can benefit from a period of barrel ageing. Its surprisingly vivid acidity allows it to retain freshness despite high alcohol levels, a character which has been well-loved by wine enthusiasts.
Today, winemakers are appreciating the potential of this previously underestimated grape, integrating it into blends with other local varieties to enhance the overall structure and ageing potential. Concomitantly, more winemakers are also creating mono-varietals, letting the unique characteristics of Susumaniello shine independently. While not as renowned as other Italian grapes, the Susumaniello is certainly making strides towards gaining recognition.
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